He really did look like a tourist, with a camera around his neck and a sticking out of his tote bag. The portly man sat on the terrace, sipping a and pretending to look at a brochure. His sunglasses masked his eyes, but I knew he wasn't looking at the pamphlet: he hadn't turned a page for the last ten minutes. As I brought him his , he coughed up a "thank you" and looked at me briefly. I tried ...