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science on Instagram: "Riding a wall of water: The physics behind the biggest wave ever surfed! 🌊🏄‍♂️ This video features Sebastian Steudtner conquering a massive wave at Nazaré, Portugal. The science behind these "monster waves" involves a unique underwater geography; a deep underwater canyon channels ocean swells directly toward the shore. As the canyon ends, the water is forced upward, causing the wave height to skyrocket due to constructive interference. To survive these conditions, surfer
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